Full Spectrum Power Lithium Motorcycle Battery FAQs

Please note: this battery FAQ is only for our Pulse IPT line of batteries. If you have an older Pulse P1, P2, or P3 battery, this FAQ does not apply. Contact us with any questions. 

Will this battery fit my bike? Other lithium batteries I’ve seen aren’t made in standard sizes and didn’t fit in my battery tray very well without having to use zip ties or foam inserts.

We offer direct fit replacements for the vast majority of OEM batteries on the market today, so we probably have a battery that’s the exact size and shape of the battery your bike was designed to use. If you happen to have a bike requiring a battery in a size we don't carry, drop us a line and let us know.


Ok, I figured out what size I need. What’s with all the different options? What do these letters mean?

Our batteries come in standard sizes to fit most OEM applications, but with multiple options for available capacity to fit your individual motorcycle, riding environment, power requirement, and price point.

In general, the letters refer to different capacity options in each case size:

T – These are the lightest batteries, for when maximum weight savings are required, containing 160 cranking amps and 2.5 amp hour capacity.

(blank) – 210 cranking amps, 3.6 amp hour capacity. These are the best all-around performers, balancing weight savings with power output perfect for most typical applications.

L – 360 cranking amps, 6 amp hour capacity. L batteries have a bump in power for bikes with high compression engines or with additional electrical accessories like LED lights, heated riding gear, intercoms or stereo systems.

S – 720 cranking amps, 12 amp hour capacity. S batteries are our highest capacity batteries, providing maximum power in heavy duty applications, like very high compression engines, drag bikes with data logging or nitrous oxide systems, bikes ridden in cold weather, or large displacement, long distance adventure bikes outfitted for endurance riding.

R/RR – Made-to-order race-only batteries providing high power, low weight, with no BMS or under-voltage protection. Contact us directly for R or RR batteries.


Can I kill my battery by draining it past the point of recovery?

In general, no, you cannot damage your battery by draining it too far. The BMS has a protection circuit that prevents the battery from discharging past 12.8 volts, so if you accidentally leave your bike on, or let it sit for a few months without using a maintenance charger and your battery is slowly drained, the IPT Reset temporarily bypasses the low-voltage protection circuit and gives you an opportunity to start your bike.

So, you’re saying I just hit my IPT Reset switch and my bike will start?

No! The IPT Reset switch gives you an additional opportunity to start your bike once you diagnose why your bike isn’t starting in the first place. If the battery is drained simply because the bike sat for a while, hitting the IPT Reset should allow your bike to start in most circumstances.

If your bike isn’t starting because of some other failure mode, like bad fuel, no fuel, dirty spark plugs, gummed up carburetors, pinched fuel lines, a bad engine tune, a loose connector, a bad ground, a faulty regulator/rectifier, or any other mechanical or electrical reason, the IPT Reset will not help you start your bike. It’s simply protection layer for the battery to prevent over-discharge damage stemming from any of the reasons we just listed.

The IPT Reset will not fix whatever issue is preventing your bike from starting or charging properly. Once you diagnose and fix the underlying issue, then try the IPT Reset.

How do I reset the IPT if I have done something that engaged one of the protection circuits?

There are a few answers to this question, because there are a few different protection circuits.

In general, if you have drained the battery- turn the ignition off, and press the "IPT Reset" button on the top of the battery, and that will give you enough power to start your bike. You *may* need to disconnect your negative terminal in some cases.

If you have tripped the short circuit/over current protection, and the over voltage protection, you will need to disconnect the negative battery cable. Then, you should connect a charger that supplies constant voltage and current. After 5-10 minutes, the battery should reset the fault code and the battery will work.

Can I use any battery charger on your batteries? Other lithium batteries need a special charger.

While we recommend using one of our Pacemaker chargers for optimal performance, you can use most standard battery chargers on the market with our Pulse IPT batteries.

Note that in order for the charger to work on any lithium battery, it must operate between 13.3 and 14.6 volts. If the charger does not fall within that range, it is not suitable for any lithium battery, including the Pulse IPT.

While the BMS will protect the battery from damage, the charging/battery maintenance process may not be as efficient as compared to a Pacemaker.

If you have an R-spec battery, you cannot  use a charger designed for lead-acid batteries. These batteries are designed for race-only applications or total-loss charging systems and do not contain a BMS. You must use either a Pacemaker or CV-1 charger. Using another charger will void your warranty.

For a longer discussion about charging lithium motorcycle batteries, read this.


Will this battery work in the cold? Do I have to warm it up before trying to start by bike in cold weather?

All batteries (both lead acid and lithium chemistries) are somewhat susceptible to cold temperatures. While we’ve found that the cells in our batteries perform a bit better in the cold when compared to the cells we’ve tested from our competitors, if you cold-soak your battery by leaving your bike parked outside in 20 degree weather for a week, you might need to leave the headlights on for a few minutes, or connect a charger for a minute, or thumb the starter to wake it up.

You shouldn’t see any permanent damage due to cold temperatures usually encountered in areas where people own motorcycles, but we don’t recommend taking these to Antarctica. If you regularly store or ride your motorcycle in areas that get very cold, we recommend an L or S battery, which will give you some extra capacity to help offset cold temperature voltage drops.

Here is a longer discussion about lithium batteries in cold weather.


Is this battery water/chemical proof?

Our batteries are water resistant/splash proof. They are perfectly fine to use while riding in the rain or through streams, but they should not be completely submerged in water.

Our batteries are tested to be resistant to most chemicals found in motorsport environments. This includes most solvents, cleaners, oils, greases, and fuels.


Can I take these rubber covers off the terminals?

Yes, but we don’t recommend it. The covers provide an additional layer of physical protection for the precision machined terminals, allow for easy identification of polarity (positive/negative), and protect against accidental short circuits. If the rubber covers are causing clearance or fitment issues, they can be trimmed using a pair of scissors. Damaged caused from removing the covers are not covered under warranty.


Can you make me a battery for my custom racebike/chopper/cruiser/adventure/street build?

Probably. We custom build batteries with different power, size, weight, and connection requirements for many race teams and pro-street applications using MoTec and Deutch Autosport connectors. Give us a call and our team of engineers will work with you.



Please check out our blog, Youtube channel, or Facebook page to find videos and technical posts about our lightweight lithium motorcycle batteries, and how they should be used and cared for. 

If you have specific questions that are not answered on the blog, feel free to call or email us directly.